At Fairway Lawns, we proudly control your weeds, fertilize your grass, and rid your lawn of disease and bugs with our leading products applied by trained technicians. Then, we provide our customers with the expertise and knowledge to handle the next step of lawn care — mowing.


Mowing is one of the single most important aspects of lawn care. How you mow your lawn will greatly affect the way it looks, no matter what we do. Proper mowing improves nutrient retention, maximizing the benefits of fertilizer. This will improve the overall quality of your lawn, increase the health of the turf, and decrease weeds.

Improves nutrient retention, maximizing the benefits of fertilizer.

Mow often enough that you don’t have to bag the clippings.

Mow at the proper height (see table below).

Keep your mower blades very sharp.

Mow in a different pattern each time.

If you get behind in mowing, raise the mowing height so that you don’t remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade, and then gradually lower the height on the next mowings.


Know when is the best time of the day to mow your lawn.

Early Morning: This is perhaps the worst time to mow because morning dew will likely be covering the grass, which can not only make it hard on your mower but can also cause the grass to be cut poorly. This, in turn, can cause the grass to tear—and torn, wet grass is more susceptible to disease and fungal infections.

Mid-Morning: This is the optimum time of day to mow your lawn. It gives your lawn the time it needs to dry and heal before nightfall.

Midday: While it is generally safe to mow your lawn midday, it is not optimal. With it being the hottest part of the day, you could stress out the turf. As long as you aren’t cutting more than the top third of the grass, you should be safe. However, if you have fallen behind on your lawn, and need to cut more than the top third, you risk burning your lawn.

Afternoon: This is the second best time of day to cut your lawn because there is less of a risk of burning your lawn.

Evening: Mowing too late in the day is just as bad as mowing too early. Dew settles in at night just as it does in the morning and you risk exposing your freshly cut lawn to disease and fungal infections.

Mow often enough that you only remove 1/3 of the grass blade each time.

If you remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade, your lawn will likely look brown after mowing. Also, the grass plant will redirect energy and nutrients away from the roots in order to produce new leaves, resulting in a weaker root system. If you mow too short, the grass plant doesn’t have enough leaf tissue surface to effectively make food for itself through photosynthesis. For mowing frequency, check the mowing height chart below for your grass type and then check that mowing height on the mowing frequency chart below.

If you get behind in mowing, raise the mowing height so that you don’t remove more than 1/3 of the grass blade, and then gradually lower the height on the next mowings.

We’ve all done it! Just didn’t have time to mow, and now it’s REALLY high. It’s very tempting to just mow it down all at once to where it needs to be. But mowing off several inches at a time is detrimental to your lawn. Just raise your mower height to follow the ‘1/3 of the grass blade’ rule above and then lower it a little with your next mowing, until it’s back to the correct height.

Mow often enough that you don't have to bag the clippings.

Mowing is a lot of work during the summer, but your reward will be a nicer looking lawn! Many people have a schedule, like mowing every Saturday. Unfortunately, the best time to mow is when your lawn needs mowing! During the growing season, that could be every 3-4 days. You can get a general idea of how often you need to mow by looking at the grass chart below and finding the recommended mowing height for your grass. Then, find that height on the mowing frequency chart. Bear in mind that this is during the growing season only, and that it will vary somewhat since weather and rainfall will affect the rate of growth of your grass. When you mow often enough that you don’t have to bag clippings, you are also ‘recycling’ your fertilizer. Most of the nutrients in the grass blades are concentrated in the tips. When you leave them on the lawn, the nutrients are returned to the lawn, and it will stay greener. When you’re mowing often enough, leaving clippings on the lawn does not contribute to thatch, as previously believed.

Mow at the proper height (see table below).

Proper mowing height is essential for the health of your grass. You can’t mow fescue at 1 inch during the summer or it will die. Likewise, if you mow your hybrid Bermuda at 3.5 inches, it will quickly become straggly and unsightly and will be more susceptible to weed problems.

Keep your mower blades very sharp.

Sharp mower blades lead to a sharper-looking lawn! If you don’t keep your mower blades sharp, you will be tearing the grass, rather than cutting it. Not only will this result in a browning effect after you mow, but it also leaves the grass wide open to fungus and other diseases as well as insect invasion and water loss. Grass cut with a sharp blade will recover more quickly, have better water retention, and enjoy increased photosynthesis. Mower blades should be sharpened at least twice each season. You can tell when your blades are dull by looking at the top of the grass plant right after mowing. If it’s white and frayed then your blades are dull.

Sharpen your mower blades properly.

Tools you will need for blade sharpening include:

  • Work Gloves
  • Adjustable or Socket Wrench Clamp
  • Vise
  • Steel Wool
  • Metal File

If your blade is in good condition but just a bit dull, you can sharpen it using a table vice and metal file. We advise taking the mower outside to remove the blade, to avoid any spills in your garage. To avoid putting the blade on upside down after sharpening it, mark the bottom side of the blade before you remove it. An upside down blade will simply lash your grass without cutting it.

Before you perform any maintenance on your mower, be sure to disconnect the spark plug or remove the battery. It’s a good idea to clamp the blade before turning the bolt. Using the right wrench for the bolt size, remove the blade and tighten it into the vice.

Once the blade is secure in the vice, use steel wool to remove any rust spots. Run the file along the blade’s edge, matching the original bevel, until you’ve achieved the desired sharpness. For longer use, an edge the sharpness of a table knife will cut well without requiring resharpening after every cut.

Mower blades can become unbalanced during the blade sharpening process. When you grind more metal off one side than the other side, the blade goes off balance and one side becomes heavier than the other. When you have the edge you want, try balancing the blade from the center. If it is heavier on one side, sharpen that side to more evenly distribute the weight. Before you reattach the blade, take this opportunity to clean out and wipe down your mower’s undercarriage. Be sure not to under-tighten the bolt, as a loose blade will vibrate and may ultimately damage your mower.

Mow in a different pattern each time.

Mowing in a different direction will reduce wear and tear on the lawn from the lawnmower wheels, reduce compaction, and eliminate visible mowing lines.


Grass Species Mowing Height
Common Bermuda 1.5″–2.5″
Hybrid Bermuda 0.5″–1.5″
Centipedegrass 1.5″–2.0″
Kentucky Bluegrass 2.5″–4.0″
Tall Fescue 2.5″–4.0″
St. Augustine 2.5″–4.0″
Zoysia 0.75″–2.5″


Mowing Height Grass Height Amount Removed Mowing Frequency
0.5″ .75″ 0.25″ 1.3 days
1.0″ 1.5″ 0.5″ 2.5 days
1.5″ 2.25″ 0.75″ 3.8 days
2.0″ 3.0″ 1.0″ 5.0 days
2.5″ 3.75″ 1.25″ 6.3 days
3.0″ 4.5″ 1.5″ 7.5 days
3.5″ 5.25″ 1.75″ 8.8 days
4.0″ 6″ 2.0″ 10.0 days


Lawn scalping refers to cutting your grass at a low level, so low that you expose the stems of your grass blades. Bermudagrass and zoysiagrass should be mowed on the shortest setting in the spring; however, St. Augustine, fescue, and centipedegrass should not be scalped.

Clearing away any winter debris and dormant, straw-colored turf through scalping exposes the soil to more sunlight and helps warm it. Scalping promotes earlier green-up and helps prevent thatch and weed problems throughout the summer. It can also be beneficial if you have an uneven lawn because the short turf makes it easier to see and fill in your yard’s problem areas.

All Bermuda and zoysia lawns (only) should be scalped each spring.

Scalping your Bermuda and zoysia lawn in early spring gives your grass the rest of spring to experience healthy recovery and growth. Typically, scalping is done between March 15th and April 30th, though the weather may alter this schedule.

To scalp your lawn, lower your mower blades to the shortest setting, mow the lawn, and bag the clippings.

Depending on the height of your grass and the type of mower, you may need to mow more than once, gradually lowering the blade each time. If your lawn is uneven, you may want to raise the blades a little in the bumpy areas so you don’t gouge into the soil.

Do not scalp your lawn until all chance of frost is past.

Do not scalp cool-season grasses like fescue or bluegrass. Scalping warm season grasses like Bermuda or zoysia should be done only in the spring. If you scalp your lawn in the summer, even by accident in a bumpy area, it’s not good for the lawn and will look terrible. (We’ve all seen those places in people’s lawns where the mower wheels hit a low spot, and there is a big brown scalped area in the shape of the mower.)

Mulching mowers are great, but you don’t need to have one, as long as you mow frequently enough.

If you would like to read about mowing practices in more detail, click here for an excellent article available on the University of Arkansas website.

Professional Lawn Care Company

If you have further questions about proper lawn care, please contact your Fairway Lawns technician for more help. We put the best services and products into caring for your lawn. Our exclusive lawn treatment program provides the right balance of weed control and fertilizer to help maximize the grass you have while significantly reducing your weeds. It’s a lawn care prescription that will give you a healthier, thicker, and much greener yard!

Schedule your free estimate by filling out our online form.

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