Everything You Need to Know About Warm-Season Grasses

Posted on November 15, 2025

Learn How to Best Maintain Your Southern Lawn

Warm-season grasses cover most lawns in the lower half of the U.S. Because of their location, they have a higher drought tolerance and lower level of maintenance. Another reason to love this turf variety? It can even stay green in the heat of summer.

There are lots of other essential facts about warm-season grasses! So keep reading to discover watering, fertilizing, and mowing tips, how to identify warm-season grass, and more. After all, understanding your turf and trusting Fairway Lawns can help you maintain a healthy lawn all year long.

What Makes It a Warm-Season Grass?

If you’re a homeowner in the South, you’ve probably noticed your lawn looks best in late spring through early fall. That’s because most southern lawns use warm-season grasses. These grass types thrive when temperatures hover between 80°F and 95°F.

Warm-season grasses photosynthesize differently than cool-season grasses. They prefer hotter temperatures, helping them deal well with intense heat, full sun, and drought conditions. Plus, they slow their growth by going dormant when cold weather arrives. Many types remain green while some turn brown in winter and stay alive underground.

Where Do Warm-Season Grasses Grow?

The lower third of America is where warm-season grasses do best. They can endure hot summers and intense heat without stress. They prefer areas where winters don’t bring extended freezing temperatures that could damage their crowns.

The challenge is slightly north, in the Transition Zone. This is the area in the middle of the country where summers get too hot for cool-season grasses but winters too chilly for warm-season grasses. Homeowners here have a bit of a tough time with precisely what their yard needs. You may have a brown lawn in summer or winter, depending on which type of grass you choose to have.

The Transition Zone often has tall fescue or zoysia to handle the extreme temperature swings. It’s not ideal, but it’s better than a brown lawn that can’t handle the weather half of the year.

3 Best Types of Warm-Season Grass

Bermuda grass varieties produce the dense, carpet-like turf that one sees when viewing any well-cared-for properties in the South. With a fine texture and dark green color, it looks great and holds up to full sun and heavy foot traffic exceptionally well.

The only catch? It needs regular upkeep. You’ll need to mow often, fertilize properly, and water during droughts. Bermuda grass spreads by underground stems called rhizomes and above-ground runners called stolons, allowing it to recover rapidly if damaged. It’s fairly drought-tolerant once established but goes dormant and turns brown in winter when temperatures drop below 50°F.

Zoysia comes in a couple of varieties, and homeowners like it because it creates a thick lawn that crowds out weeds and has a pleasant feel on bare feet. Zoysia loves the sunshine but can handle partial shade better than Bermuda. Plus, it’s adaptable and can grow in different kinds of soil. If your soil is rich in clay or it’s sandy, zoysia will be fine growing in it.

Zoysia is a slow grower, especially compared to another grass like Bermuda. The positive of this is that it won’t require as many mowings as other grass types. Perfect if you want a beautiful lawn without needing to put hours and hours of work into it. Additionally, some varieties of zoysia are more cold-tolerant than other warm-season grasses, making it a great choice for those in the Transition Zone.

St. Augustine features wider blades than Bermuda or zoysia, giving it a coarser texture. It’s the most shade-tolerant of the warm-season grasses. That means it a favorite pick to have for yards with lots of trees. St. Augustine spreads via stolons and establishes itself easily.

The main disadvantage of St. Augustine is that it’s a thirsty grass, needing more water than others. And it also doesn’t take heavy traffic quite as well. In humid climates, certain pests and diseases (chinch bugs and brown patch fungus) really prefer St. Augustine.

Is mixing grass types okay? With warm-season grasses, combining grasses usually doesn’t work as well as it does with cool-season varieties. For instance, Bermuda is aggressive and will eventually choke out zoysia or St. Augustine. Most lawn care professionals recommend picking one type and sticking with it.

That being said, you might find Bermuda and zoysia grasses together in a lawn, but Bermuda tends to dominate in sunny spots, while zoysia hangs on in shady areas.

Warm-Season Grass Identification Guide

Ready to find out just what type of grass you have in your lawn? Here are some tips to help you figure it out.

Leaf blade: Check the blade width and texture. St. Augustine has the widest blades of the three, about 1/4 to 1/2 inch across with rounded tips. Bermuda has fine, narrow blades with a pointed tip. Zoysia falls in the middle with medium-width blades that feel stiff to the touch.
Color and feel: St. Augustine is blue-green and feels coarse. Bermuda is dark green to gray-green and feels soft. Zoysia is medium to dark green with a dense, carpet-like feel that’s stiffer than Bermuda.
Ligule and auricles: St. Augustine has a fringe of hairs where the blade meets the stem instead of a membrane. Bermuda has a ring of white hairs at the ligule. Zoysia has short hairs along the ligule. None of these grasses have prominent auricles.
Growth habit: Bermuda spreads aggressively through both rhizomes and stolon. That means, for good or bad, it can take over a lawn quickly. St. Augustine spreads only through stolons that run above ground and root at the nodes. Zoysia spreads through both rhizomes and stolons but grows more slowly than Bermuda.
Seedhead: Bermuda produces a distinctive seedhead with 3-7 finger-like spikes radiating from a central point. St. Augustine rarely produces seedheads in mowed lawns. Zoysia produces small, fine seedheads that stick up like tiny brushes, though many varieties don’t seed much.

It’s not too difficult to tell different grasses apart, especially if you take the time to look closely at them. Still not sure what’s growing in your yard? Just ask! A lawn care professional can identify your grass type in seconds.

Watering Schedule for Warm-Season Lawns

Southern heat has given warm-season grass unique superpowers. Like they’re naturally more drought-tolerant than cool-season turf. In fact, grass in our neck of the woods actually uses about 20 percent less water. That’s a huge advantage come summer!

But how much should you water in the South? In general, most warm-season lawns need between 1 and 2 inches of water per week. The amounts will vary depending on sun exposure, soil type, and local weather.

For example, full-sun lawns usually need about 2 inches per week during the growing season. However, if your lawn receives partial shade and sun, aim for about 1 inch. The heavily shaded ones may need even less.

The best approach to watering warm-season grasses? One deep soaking per week, rather than daily light watering. You want to deliver water right down to the roots (6 to 8 inches deep). It seems counterintuitive, but that’s the best way to do it!

The problem with daily light watering? It leads to shallow roots, which makes your lawn less drought-tolerant and more susceptible to weeds and disease.

The best time to water grass? Between 4 and 8 a.m. Water pressure is strongest, wind doesn’t disrupt the spray pattern, and you lose almost nothing to evaporation. If you can’t water that early, the next best time is 8 a.m. to noon.

Keep in mind that clay soils hold water longer, while sandy soils drain quickly. You may want to adjust your schedule to accommodate watering more or less depending on your specific soil type.

And remember that during peak summer heat your warm-season grass may go into dormancy and require even less water. It might naturally turn a golden-brown color until the cooler temperatures return.

Mowing Tips for Warm-Season Grasses

Keep the sun in mind. If your lawn is shaded, mow 0.5 to 1 inch higher than usual.
Leave clippings on the lawn. Bagging clippings takes time and removes nutrients from your lawn. Mulching mowers and side-discharge mowers do a good job of spreading out clippings.
Keep blades sharp. The sharper the blade, the better the cut. Dull blades can provide more opportunities for fungal diseases to take hold.
Cut the right amount. Don’t remove more than one-third of the blade height at a time. If your mower is set at 3 inches, mow when the grass reaches 4 inches.
Change your frequency with the seasons. In spring, mowing two times per week may be necessary. In summer, every two to three weeks is usually the right amount since growth slows down a bit.
Follow these mowing tips for better results. When you mow too low, it hurts root development and lets insects, disease, dryness, and foot traffic make a bigger impact. Plus, it allows weeds to infiltrate your yard.

Interested in learning more about proper mowing? Check out these mowing recommendations from Texas A&M AgriLife Extension.

Fertilizing Warm-Season Lawns

When should you apply fertilizer to warm-season grasses? When they’re growing! So late spring through the summer. This takes advantage of the peak performance months, helps maintain density, and keeps your lawn healthy and looking picture-perfect.

Keep in mind that nitrogen is the best friend of established lawns. It promotes leaf development and that eye-catching green color everyone loves. For new lawns, phosphorus and potassium are a bigger deal since they help with root and stem development.

Avoid fertilizing warm-season grasses in early spring when they’re still dormant or just beginning to wake up. Wait until soil temperatures reach 65°F and your grass is actively growing. Also, skip fertilization after late summer. Feeding too late in the season can make your grass more vulnerable to damage in colder weather.

In general, fertilizer helps turf stay dense, which reduces weeds. Non-fertilized grass isn’t as thick, which allows weeds to take over your yard.

4 Issues You May Have With a Warm-Season Lawn

Pest infestations. Grubs and chinch bugs can quickly (and silently) destroy your yard. These insects feed on the grass, weakening or destroying it in days or even hours. A few telltale signs of a lawn pest issue include wilting, yellowing, or dead patches
Compaction and thatch. This creates a handful of problems, especially in heavy clay soils. Aeration in late spring or early summer, when your grass is actively growing, helps to alleviate these issues while allowing the lawn to recover quickly.
Fungal diseases are common in the warm-season grasses, particularly in hot and humid areas of the South. St. Augustine and Zoysia are susceptible to brown patch and gray leaf spot, while Bermuda grass can be affected by dollar spot and spring dead spot. These usually look like circular brown patches, thinning areas, or discolored turf. The easiest ways to prevent lawn disease in the South? Proper lawn maintenance. Water in the early morning, mow at the right height, avoid over-fertilizing during peak heat, and watch your lawn drainage.
Nutrient lockout can sometimes cause yellowing or poor growth in grass growing in acidic southern soils. A soil test will determine the exact deficiencies and pH problems. Lime applications raise pH where needed and sulfur lowers it (if you’re in an area with alkaline soil).

Is Thatch in Grass Good or Bad?

For the sake of your lawn’s health, keep an eye on the amount of thatch you have. You know, that layer of organic matter that builds up right above the soil.

The good: A small amount. It moderates soil temperature and provides cushioning. The bad: Too much thatch blocks water and air movement, reduces fertilizer effectiveness, and increases disease and insect problems.

Thatch happens because of overfertilizing, overwatering, soil compaction, and just time ticking by. Roots develop in the thatch layer instead of soil when it gets too heavy. Since thatch carries little water, your lawn is subject to heat stress, cold stress, and drought stress.

How to Battle Weeds & Crabgrass

Pre-emergent herbicides are the best way to tackle crabgrass and other pesky weeds before they rear their ugly heads. This kind of herbicide prevents summer annual weeds from germinating.

Apply it when soil temperatures are between 55 and 60°F (usually mid-February through early March). Miss this window of time and you could be fighting crabgrass all summer.

Already seeing weeds pop up? Post-emergence herbicides kill the actively growing ones. The best time for spot-spraying broadleaf weeds like dollar weed, clover, and dandelions is from late spring to early summer. That’s when they will more easily absorb the herbicide.

Also, fall treatments can be effective. As temperatures drop, plants take up nutrients in preparation for winter dormancy.

What to Do During Winter Dormancy

When the temperature stays below 50-55°F for days or weeks during late fall and winter, warm-season grasses naturally go dormant and turn brown. They didn’t die. It’s just a survival mechanism, so don’t worry! Your grass is still alive beneath the surface.

You can’t really keep warm-season grass green through winter dormancy (whereas cool-season grasses remain green year-round). It won’t help to fertilize or overwater a dormant warm-season grass, and might even do more harm. Some southerners like to overseed with annual ryegrass in fall for temporary winter color, but it’s optional and simply cosmetic.

To get your grass off to the best possible start after dormancy, do some winter lawn care during the colder months. For instance, avoid heavy traffic on frozen or dormant turf, and don’t apply herbicides during dormancy.

Once temperatures rise consistently into the 65°F range in spring, your grass will green up naturally. Active growth resumes around March to April in the South, letting you start your regular watering and fertilization routine after that.

FAQs About Warm-Season Grasses

What’s the best grass for shade?

St. Augustine grass tolerates shade better than most other warm-season turfgrasses. Zoysia is a close second. Keep in mind that grasses, by nature, prefer sun. So no grass truly thrives in dense shade where it receives less than 4-6 hours of sunlight per day.

How long does grass seed take to grow?

It depends on the variety. In general, Bermuda grass germinates within 7-14 days and some grasses like bahia take longer (21-30 days). Of course, it all depends on soil temperature and moisture levels. Note that many southern homeowners choose sod or plugs over seed for faster establishment, especially with St. Augustine and zoysia.

Can I grow warm-season grass in winter?

It’s not the best idea to plant warm-season grass in winter since it needs warm soil temperatures around 65° Fahrenheit or higher to germinate and establish. The perfect time for planting is late spring through the early summer when the soil is warm and your grass has the complete growing season to build strong roots.

Can I mix warm- and cool-season grasses?

Because of the difference in their growth patterns and seasonal preferences, mixing both warm- and cool-season grasses into one lawn is not advisable. The end result would be a spotty, inconsistent lawn.

Let the Experts Take Care of Your Yard!

Warm-season grasses need to be mowed, watered, and fertilized at appropriate times to remain healthy and look their best. Now you have a few helpful tips up your sleeve!

If you don’t want to use your free time (and energy) to take care of every little lawn care detail, reach out to Fairway Lawns! We proudly serve seven states and dozens of communities, ensuring high-quality lawn care and pest control services across the South: